Books and Resources to Start Strong
Starting a rabbit farming operation without solid foundational knowledge leads to preventable losses—dead stock, poor breeding outcomes, and disease outbreaks. The right books give you realistic expectations about labor, costs, and market demand before you invest thousands in equipment and animals.
Rabbit Production by Peter R. Cheeke
This is the industry standard textbook used by agricultural programs and commercial producers. Cheeke covers breeding genetics, nutrition, health management, and housing systems with hard data on feed conversion ratios and growth rates. If you’re serious about scaling beyond a backyard hobby, this book eliminates guesswork.
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Raising Rabbits Successfully by Bob Bennett
Bennett’s guide is more accessible for beginners and small-scale operators. It focuses on practical daily management, equipment setup, and troubleshooting common problems without requiring a veterinary degree. The chapter on cage design and ventilation alone will save you from building poorly-designed housing.
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The Backyard Rabbit by veterinarian Kate Biven
While geared toward smaller operations, this book contains critical health and nutrition information relevant to any rabbit farmer. It covers disease prevention, vaccination protocols, and recognizing signs of illness before they wipe out your breeding stock.
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Storey’s Guide to Raising Rabbits by Bob Bennett
This Storey’s publication is comprehensive yet organized for quick reference. It pairs well with Bennett’s other work and includes market information for meat, fur, and pet sales channels specific to different regions.
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Equipment You Need
Rabbit farming equipment falls into five core categories: housing, feeding and watering systems, breeding and health tools, processing (if you’re raising meat rabbits), and facility climate control. The setup varies significantly depending on whether you’re raising 10 rabbits for pets or 100 for meat production.
Housing and Cages
- Wire cages: 30″ × 24″ × 18″ minimum for medium breeds, suspended on frames to allow droppings to fall through. Essential for meat production and prevents predator access.
- Cage frames: Metal or sturdy wood structures to hold multiple suspended cages with proper spacing for sanitation.
- Nestboxes: Wooden or plastic boxes (14″ × 8″ × 8″ for medium breeds) used during breeding and for kindling.
- Cover boards: Plywood or plastic sheets that partially cover cages to reduce stress and provide shade during extreme heat.
Feeding Systems
- Pellet feeders (J-feeders): Hanging feeders that minimize waste and prevent contamination. One per rabbit.
- Hay racks: Prevents hay from being soiled and wasted on cage floors. Essential for fiber intake.
- Water bottles or crocks: Gravity-fed bottles are standard; crocks work but require more frequent cleaning. Plan one per cage minimum.
- Automatic waterer system: Nipple lines reduce daily labor on larger operations (25+ rabbits) but require backup systems for equipment failure.
- Feed storage containers: Airtight bins protect pellets from moisture and pest contamination.
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Breeding and Health Tools
- Record keeping system: Notebook, spreadsheet software, or dedicated rabbit management app to track breeding dates, kindling outcomes, and health issues.
- Scale (digital): For weighing kits at birth and tracking growth rates. Accuracy to 0.1 lb is standard.
- Tattooing kit: Tattoo pen and ink for permanent rabbit identification. Essential for breeding programs and showing.
- First aid and health supplies: Antiseptic, antibiotic ointment, scissors, tweezers, pain relief options, and vaccines (if using them).
- Nail clippers: Specialized rabbit clippers prevent overgrowth and foot sore issues.
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Processing Equipment (Meat Production Only)
- Processing cones or stands: Humane restraint for slaughter. Two or three cones allow workflow efficiency.
- Sharp knives: 6-inch boning knife and 8-inch butcher’s knife designed specifically for rabbit processing.
- Cutting boards and work surfaces: Food-grade stainless steel or high-density plastic. Separate from non-food areas.
- Coolers with ice: For immediate chilling of carcasses to 40°F or below.
- Packaging materials: Vacuum sealer, bags, and labels if selling whole carcasses or cuts.
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Facility Climate and Sanitation
- Thermometer/hygrometer: Rabbits do best between 60–70°F. Monitor humidity to prevent respiratory issues.
- Exhaust fan or ventilation system: Essential for ammonia control in enclosed rabbitries. Poor ventilation causes respiratory disease.
- Cleaning tools: Brush, shovel, pressure washer (low pressure for cage cleaning to avoid hydraulic shock).
- Disinfectant: Bleach solution or commercial rabbit-safe disinfectants for periodic deep cleaning.
What to Buy First vs Later
Your first purchases should enable basic rabbit care: housing, feeding, and water systems. Everything else depends on your specific business model.
- Buy first (before rabbits arrive): Cages and frames, feeders, water bottles, nestboxes, feed storage containers, thermometer, basic cleaning supplies, and a record-keeping system.
- Buy second (within first 3 months): Tattooing kit, scale, hay racks, first aid supplies, and nail clippers once you understand your herd’s needs.
- Buy later or only if scaling: Automatic waterer systems (add these when you exceed 50+ rabbits), processing equipment (only if selling meat), ventilation systems (only if building an enclosed rabbitry), and specialized breeding supplies.
New vs Used Equipment
Buying used wire cages, frames, and feeders is cost-effective and widely practiced among rabbit farmers. Check online farm equipment forums, Craigslist, and Facebook livestock groups for substantial savings. Used cages typically cost 30–50% less than new. Inspect them for rust, broken welds, and sharp edges that could injure rabbits.
Never buy used water bottles or feeding equipment without cleaning and inspecting them thoroughly—bacteria and disease transmission are real risks. New bottles and feeders cost $3–10 each and aren’t worth the health gamble. Similarly, don’t compromise on nestboxes unless you’re confident they’re disease-free. New nestboxes cost $8–20 and directly affect kit survival rates.
Where to Buy
- Amazon: Feeders, water bottles, scales, tattooing kits, cleaning supplies, and first aid equipment. Competitive pricing and fast shipping for small items.
- Local farm supply stores: Tractor Supply, Rural King, and regional co-ops stock some feeders and caging materials. Prices vary but you avoid shipping bulky items.
- Specialty rabbit suppliers: KW Cages, Cages by Design, and other rabbit-specific manufacturers offer higher-quality wire cages and custom configurations. Higher cost but built for rabbit farming specifically.
- Craigslist and Facebook livestock groups: Used cages, frames, and equipment. Inspect carefully before purchasing. Savings are substantial but condition is variable.
- Agricultural co-ops and feed mills: For bulk pellet purchases and sometimes cage materials. Building relationships here supports local suppliers and ensures consistent feed quality.
- Veterinary supply sites: For vaccines, antibiotics, and advanced health supplies if your operation requires them.